Do you know that choosing the right chicken breed for your climate and space is most important?
Having heritage chickens in your backyard can be fun, but you need to make sure you choose breeds that do well in your area’s climate and space.
Take a look at the weather and the amount of space you have for the coop and the run. Heritage breeds are usually hardy, but each one has its own sweet spot.
For example, breeds that do well in mild to moderate climates might not do well in very hot or very cold weather. We’ll group our suggestions into three climate zones: temperate, hot/humid, and cold/snowy.
For each zone, we’ll talk about the breed’s egg and meat production, personality, size, and why it’s good.
Best Egg and Meat Production Chicken Breeds for Your Climate and Space
Plymouth Rock (Barred Rock)
The Plymouth Rock is a classic American chicken breed that is best for two things. The rocks are calm and friendly, making them ideal for families and beginners.
They can weigh between 7 and 10 pounds when fully grown, so you can also get meat chickens that are a good size. It’s surprising how well they can handle the cold in the winter; they continue to lay eggs through the short days better than many breeds.
Their easygoing personality and ability to survive in mild climates make them perfect for backyards where they won’t bother the neighbors.
Buff Orpington
The Buff Orpingtons are large, docile “golden retriever” chickens. It’s normal for Orpingtons to lay about 200–250 eggs a year, and their big bodies make a lot of meat (8–10 lb adults).
They are known for being calm and even “good winter layers,” but keep in mind that their single combs can get frostbite in frigid weather.
They do great in temperate areas; they like to browse in a free-range yard but don’t get too lost.
Overall, Orpingtons give you a steady supply of eggs and are friendly, which makes taking care of them fun.
Australorp
The Australorps are soft, quiet layers. They can lay up to 325–350 brown eggs a year, which is a lot for a heritage type.
Roosters and older hens can be used for both meat and eggs because they are bred to gain weight well. They are generally calm and friendly, which makes them great pets even in small spaces. They also don’t get stressed out easily.
These birds adapt to a range of conditions, although in hot summers, you should watch them since their black feathers can absorb heat (shading and ventilation help). Having an Australorp flock in your yard means consistent eggs and friendly visitors.
Sussex
The Sussex chickens are quiet and curious foragers. People know that Sussex hens are friendly and watchful. They will hunt bugs and plants in your garden, naturally getting rid of pests.
Depending on the strain, Sussex hens lay an average of 200–250 eggs a year. They also grow to be strong birds that weigh 7–9 pounds, so they can be used for meat.
You can keep a few of them in a moderately sized coop because they don’t need as much space as a huge giant breed.
Sussex are used to being confined but love being free to roam. Their calm and gentle behavior, especially that of the hens, keeps things calm in the neighborhood.
Welsummer
The Welsummers are friendly all-rounders. Welsummers do very well in a wide range of climates, surprisingly well in both heat and cold.
They lay between 220 and 280 eggs a year. Their owners love how calm they are and how easy they are to handle.
They’re also great at finding food, and they don’t usually fly up or bother other animals, so a small run is fine. Most of the time, roosters are nice, and hens don’t get moody or peck very often.
They are curious and can sneak through holes in the coop if it’s not secure. Other than that, they’re popular in cities because they lay eggs reliably and are adorable.
Delaware
The Delaware chickens are dual-purpose and are best suited for urban backyards. The Delaware breed was created from Barred Rocks and New Hampshires, so they have a favorable balance of meatiness and laying ability.
Usually, they lay 200 to 250 eggs a year and grow to be 6 to 9 pounds (hens) or more . People have seen these birds lay eggs in cold winters when other birds would normally stop.
Though some cockerels can be rude, they are calm and friendly. The hens, on the other hand, are easy to handle.
It’s cheaper to feed them if you let them free-range, but they also do well in a yard with walls around it. Delaware is perfect for city life because it is hardy, tame, and good at producing both eggs and meat.
Silkies
As a pocket pet, the Silkie is good for adding extra charm and moodiness. They are bantams, which are small chickens, and their cottony feathers make them stand out.
You won’t get many eggs from them because they only lay about 100–120 eggs a year. If you want lovebirds and want to hatch your chicks, their calm, sweet personalities and constant broodiness can be very satisfying.
Because Silkies are small and gentle, they do well in small flocks or mixed flocks. They are often kept as pets with larger layers.
Note: Their walnut-shaped combs are better at handling cold than big combs, but make sure they stay dry because their fluffy feathers don’t keep water away. Many owners love their Silkies because they are friendly and good at brooding, but they don’t produce many eggs in temperate backyards.
A Silkie hen, a bantam breed loved for its extremely calm, gentle nature and broodiness. Silkies only lay ~100 eggs/year, so they’re kept mainly for enjoyment and hatching chicks rather than maximum egg output.
Hot and Humid Climates
If you live in a warm or tropical area, look for breeds bred for heat tolerance. These birds often have big combs and thin feathering to shed heat. Many Mediterranean and tropical heritage breeds meet this requirement. For example:
Ancona
The Anconas are Mediterranean layers that thrive in heat. The hens lay about 220–250 eggs/year on a relatively small frame.
They can handle heat well and are active hunters. Their light bodies and big single combs help them stay cool.
Even in a city yard, they need room to roam because they love to do that. They will steadily lay eggs in return. Most of the time, they are alert but not hostile.
Turken Naked Neck
The Turken Naked Neck is a resilient workhorse that lives happily in hot weather conditions. Because of a genetic change, Naked Necks have almost no neck feathers and up to half as many body feathers as a normal chicken
These things help them stay cool. Each rooster lays about 150 to 200 brown eggs a year, and they are big enough to use for meat if necessary.
Importantly, Naked Necks are said to be gentle, sweet, and surprisingly quiet, which makes them perfect for a neighborhood setting.
Many experts say that Naked Necks are better for people who live in cities in warm climates because they do better with being confined and can handle the heat better than fluffy, big-bodied birds.
Black Minorca
The Black Minorca is a big Mediterranean layer. Minorcas lay between 220 and 300 eggs a year, which is one of the highest numbers of eggs laid by a heritage breed.
They also do very well in the sun. They can handle heat, but they can be flighty. If you have a backyard run, they’ll love being able to roam freely.
Minorcas are generally good-natured, and they become pretty tame when they are raised by hand.
Giving plants lots of water and shade is important in humid areas, but their heat-dissipating features (like their big combs and wattles) make them reliable tropical layers.
Spanish White-Faced or Florida Giant
These Spanish White-Faced or Florida Giant can handle very high temperatures. Others, like the Cubalaya, are not as common but are also excellent at it.
Cubalaya roosters are very aggressive to other chickens, but they thrive in heat and humidity.
You could also look for Sicilian Buttercups or Andalusians if you can find them. These fast-moving Mediterranean breeds do very well in hot weather.
Leghorn
The Leghorn chicken is a classic layer for hot climates that is often kept as a commercial hybrid. Leghorns can handle the heat because their bodies are smooth.
They like a bigger yard because they are very active and need room to run around. When it comes to egg counts, Leghorns can lay over 250 eggs a year if they have enough room.
Keep in mind that they can be flighty and not as tame as some heavy breeds. A bantam or smooth-feathered variety, like the Naked Neck, is usually easier to handle if you’re worried about flightiness in a small space.
Cold and Snowy Climates
For cold winters or snowy weather, choose breeds that are shaped like little jackets with insulation. It’s best if they have feathered legs, small combs or wattles (to keep them from getting frostbite), and thick feathers. Some good options are:
Chantecler
The Chantecler chickens are one of the best winter survivors. It has very thick feathers, no wattles, and feathered legs.
Most birds can’t live in cold places, but the Chantecler is one of the few that can. It was actually created in Canada to live in snow.
You can expect between 200 and 220 eggs a year. Some breeds will slow down in the winter, but this one will keep laying eggs and doing well.
Dominique
The Dominiques are all-American dual-purpose birds with tight plumage and a rose comb. The hens usually lay between 230 and 275 eggs a year, which is great for a breed that can do two things well.
That flat, small rose comb can handle frost much better than a big single comb. They are a medium size (5–7 lb) and like to hunt, so their fat stores and feathers help them stay warm even in the winter. Overall, Dominiques are friendly animals that don’t mind being confined.
Brahma
The Brahmas are gentle giants. Hens weigh 9–12 pounds, and roosters can weigh up to 14 pounds or more.
It’s easy for these big birds to live in snow because they have thick feathers and feathered feet. Their calmness and slow movement (which helps keep the heat in!) help them lay about 180 to 200 eggs a year.
Since they have pea combs, they don’t have to worry about getting frostbite. They will need a strong place to sleep, but they are good in cold places because they are calm and hardy.
Wyandotte
This Wyandotte chicken is another popular bird that can handle cold weather. It has rose-colored combs and dense feathers.
In winter areas, Golden and Silver Wyandottes are raised a lot. Every year, hens lay about 180 to 220 eggs. Even when it snows, these birds stay calm and do their job well.
Their performance is a little better than lighter breeds if you cut their flight feathers. Actually, Wyandottes are great for yards that aren’t very big because they don’t wander off as much.
Buckeye
Buckeyes are American-born tough birds. The combs and wattles on buckeyes are very small, and the feathers are very thick.
Because they were made for cold winters, they really last; you can expect about 200 eggs a year.
Buckeyes weigh between 7 and 9 pounds and are surprisingly tough. Their feathers are so heavy that they might need a dry barn to keep their legs from getting frozen.
Other than that, they can find food easily, even when there is snow on the ground. They are friendly, and when they are free to roam, they make good “backyard guards” against predators.
Any breed that has a pea or rose comb or is labeled as “cold-hardy” is usually a good choice for northern areas. Large breeds with only one comb, like Leghorns and Minorcas, should not be left outside in sub-zero temperatures unless you can wrap the combs or heat the room.
Please remember that in the winter, it is very important to give all breeds a coop that doesn’t draft, bedding, and fresh water that is preferably heated.
Coop Design According To Climate and Space Settings
Chicks love a cozy, well-thought-out coop, and it makes the neighbors happy too. When building a coop for a small yard in the city or suburbs, you should think about safety, cleanliness, and comfort.
A small, portable coop with a safe run is ideal. Notice the strong fencing and raised coop box. Even if you only have a small area, make sure to cover it with tight wire mesh (hardware cloth) to keep animals out.
Start by keeping predators out. Instead of weak chicken wire, every urban coop should use metal hardware cloth (½″ or smaller) on the sides and roof of the run.
Foxes, raccoons, and stray dogs can’t get through the wire if you bury it at least 6 to 12 inches deep or cement an apron on top of it.
Raccoons are smart and can open weak hooks on doors and nest boxes, so make sure they have strong latches. “Secure your coop with wire and locks to keep out raccoons, rats, and pets from the neighborhood.”
Each hen should have at least 2–3 square feet of space inside the coop. Providing more space is beneficial. Put perches (higher roosting bars) and nesting boxes inside (one box for every three to four hens).
Even in small coops, nest boxes can be made that can be reached from the outside so that eggs can be collected without going inside. For optimal ventilation, keep drafts at bird level to a minimum and install screened vents high up to let fresh air flow and moisture escape.
Even if you insulate the walls or put up a flannel curtain in the laying area during harsh winters, make sure there is still enough airflow.
For the run outside, try to give each bird at least 10 square feet. Chickens scratch, dust-bathe, and get exercise in a bigger run, which makes them less stressed and peck less.
During the day, you can use portable tractor coops or “chicken walks” with an adult to take your chickens outside if your yard is very small. Remember that a longer run makes things less crowded and noisy. Don’t let the water and feed leak out or freeze. Keep them inside or under a cover.
Finally, keep the coop clean and friendly to your neighbors. Use bedding that breaks down easily, like wood shavings or straw, and clean out the droppings often (at least once a week).
Keep the area odor-free by letting air flow through and removing wet bedding right away. Keep the coop dry, even if it’s cold outside. Wet feathers can get frostbite or make the birds sick.
In addition to keeping your chickens healthy, a clean, well-ventilated coop keeps smells and diseases away and shows your neighbors that you are a responsible keeper.
Managing Neighbors and Noise
When you keep chickens in a city, it’s best if your neighbors agree. The good news is that hens are naturally quiet (they cluck softly), so roosters are the ones who make the most noise.
The sound of roosters crowing is so annoying that many cities have laws against them. One rooster that is too busy can ruin the peace, even if they are allowed to. Keep only hens (no roosters) if you If you want to keep chickens without a lot of stress, consider the following. If you have four to six hens in a coop, they will lay a lot of eggs and make almost no noise.
Few most important things about coop settings according to weather conditions are:
Placement matters
Place the coop and run as far away from windows and outdoor hangouts as your yard will allow. It should be protected from noise by hedges or fencing if you can.
For soundproofing, some people even plant bushes or put up lattice around the run.
Plus, if you can, turn any openings away from the house next door. Even hens start to chatter early in the morning, so try to plan your day around when they’ll be active.
Run times and routines
Take care of your chickens at normal times, not before or after dawn. The neighbors won’t like being fed at 5 a.m. or having eggs collected at midnight.
Keep feed in a metal bin or container with a lid to keep rodents away. Rats and mice can get into unlocked feed, which can be a problem for neighbors as well.
If you talk about pests, make sure you check for them often and get rid of problems right away, like mice, flies, and mites. You don’t want a chicken-related infestation to bother anyone.
Communication is key
Being nice to your neighbors goes a long way. Tell your neighbors that you’re getting chickens and that you’ll keep the coop clean.
You could even give them fresh eggs every once in a while. Open and friendly communication keeps people from getting angry.
Listen to what they have to say and see if a small fix, like moving the coop or cleaning it more often, can make things better. Being responsible makes people more likely to support you.
Remember that building goodwill means showing that you care about smells, noise, and keeping the coop clean.
Summary of good practices
Keep the flock small (usually 4–6 hens) and don’t have any roosters. Make sure the coop is always clean to stop smells. Perform your duties in silence and during the day.
Make your flock an asset (fresh eggs, pest control for your garden) instead of a bothersome thing to deal with. Feeding, Foraging, and Predator Protection
Feeding and Diet
A balanced diet is crucial. A good-quality layer feed (crumble or mash) with about 16–18% protein and extra calcium is the main thing that laying hens eat.
Always have clean, fresh water available. Foraging is fun, but it’s not a replacement for food. Your hens still need that complete feed every day, even if they are free-range.
They might want to eat too many kitchen scraps, but be careful: “they love kitchen scraps…but these extras can’t replace their main feed”.
That is, don’t let them eat a lot of treats and not eat their food; that will hurt their health and egg production.
(Tip: Put treats like corn or mealworms in a treat dispenser or spread them out so they have to find them. This will keep them busy without making them lose their appetite.)
If your chickens can’t go on gravel, give them free-choice grit (small stones). Their gizzards need it to grind their food. For extra calcium, especially in the winter, you can also let the shells eat oyster shells or cuttlebones whenever they want
Foraging
If you have a yard or garden space, let your chickens scratch around. They are naturally hunters and will eat grass, weeds, and bugs.
Foraging for food makes them healthier and happier. “Free-ranging is great for chickens, but backyard flocks still need a balanced diet”.
Remember that even if they wander, it’s just an extra boost. You might also want to plant grasses or clover that chickens like outside the run.
You could put extra greens or a mix of greens in their feeder when it snows or when they can’t find food elsewhere.
Predator Protection
Urban coops face threats from foxes, raccoons, opossums, hawks, neighborhood cats – even neighborhood dogs.
Being careful and having a good coop/run design are always the best ways to stay safe. We already talked about how important it is to lock up at night and use strong wire mesh.
Also, put netting or hardware cloth over the top of the run to keep hawks and owls from attacking from the air. In places with a lot of predators, some people electrify a small fence around the edge of the run as a last resort.
At dawn and dusk, when many predators are out, try to keep your chickens locked up in the coop or run instead of letting them roam free.
Your birds should be behind locked fencing in case a predator comes along. Cutting back the plants around the coop also makes it harder for predators to hide.
Having a dog that you can trust around the chickens can also be a good deterrent, but it shouldn’t be used instead of physical barriers. In short, your best defenses are a strong coop, a safe run, and locking the birds up at night.
Feeding schedule
Chickens do best with a routine. Give them food first thing in the morning, after they’re done laying eggs, and maybe again in the late afternoon.
If feed gets spilled, clean it up right away so it doesn’t attract pests. Monitor their body condition closely.
If they get broody and stop laying (which can happen during winter or spring molts), you can get them to lay again by giving them extra light or protein. But don’t leave the light on all the time; chickens need dark times to rest.
Local Regulation Awareness
Make sure that having chickens is legal where you live and that you know the rules before you order chicks. Talk to your city or town’s zoning office about “backyard chicken laws.” These rules are very different, but in many Western cities, the following are common:
- Size of the Flock: Many laws limit flocks to four to six hens per home. This is to cut down on noise, trash, and other problems.
- Roosters: As a result of their loud crowing, most cities either don’t allow roosters at all or strongly advise against them. If roosters are not allowed, plan to get only pullet chicks.
- Placement of the Coop: There are often setback rules that say coops must be a certain distance from houses or property lines. Usually, these are given in feet or meters. Check to see what the tallest coop or run can be and if an automatic door is allowed (if you want one).
- Fees and Permits: Some places need you to register or get a permit to keep chickens. Often, there is a small fee for applying, anywhere from $20 to $100. Typically, obtaining a permit requires sending in a plan of your coop, including its size, location, and any necessary neighbor contacts.
- Slaughter: In many cities, killing birds on your own property is illegal. Roosters and old hens may need to be taken off-site or processed at home after a short hayride if you want to use them for meat.
- Other Rules: Most ordinances say how much space a coop needs to have (usually the recommended 2–3 ft² per bird), how loud or smelly it can be, and if other animals are allowed (for example, ducks or geese may have their own rules).
Most importantly, don’t skip this step. For “urban farm animal” rules, you can talk to or look up on the website of your city’s planning or animal control office. Different towns may have different rules.
One town a mile away might let you have six hens without a permit, while the next town may not let you have any. If you find out that chickens aren’t allowed, you can try to change the rule by starting a petition or going to a town meeting.
Some keepers have been successful in their efforts to get backyard hens allowed. A lot of neighborhoods have tickets or fines for illegal coops, so plan on following the rules until then.
Knowing the rules and staying informed not only keeps you out of trouble, but it also shows your neighbors and the police that you are a responsible chicken keeper.
Being honest like this helps build trust, and following the rules also keeps everyone safe. All ordinances are made with public health in mind.
Heritage vs. Hybrid Chicken Breeds For Your Climate and Space
Finally, let us look at the differences between heritage breeds and the modern crosses that most people have seen in farm stores, such as ISA Browns and Cornish crosses.
Generation after generation has passed down lines of true-breeding animals, known as heritage breeds. Hybrids, on the other hand, are crosses that were chosen for one trait (like speed or egg count) and usually can’t breed true. Both have pros and cons for small backyard keepers.
Egg Production
Commercial layer hybrids, which are also known as “egg-layers,” lay an egg almost every day for the first two to three years of their lives. On average, they lay six to seven eggs per week.
Heritage hens only lay three to six eggs a week once they are fully grown. That’s 150 to 300 eggs a year. In fact, heritage breeds that have good laying lines can get pretty close to hybrid levels.
This can be seen in the fact that an Australorp or Welsummer lays about 250 eggs a year. Heritage breeds, on the other hand, usually lay between 150 and 200 eggs.
A heritage hen, on the other hand, will lay well for a long time (5–7 years or more), while a hybrid hen will peak early and be done by 3–4 years.
Meat Production
If you want fast results with meat, Cornish Cross hybrid broilers are the way to go, but they can have health problems because they grow so fast.
Heritage meat breeds like Jersey Giants, Sussex, and others grow much more slowly. It can take them 16 weeks or more to reach butcher size, but the meat tastes better because of it.
Heritage chickens grow more slowly, which helps their bones and organs develop properly, and many people like the way they taste.
If you want to live on a homestead and raise your own meat birds, heritage dual-purpose breeds are better than hybrid roosters because you can use the roosters and eat the eggs from the hens.
Health and Hardiness
Heritage breeds tend to be hardier. They were bred to live on farms, so their immune systems are usually stronger, and they can handle a wide range of foods.
Additionally, they have the ability to have babies and raise them naturally. However, many hybrids are quite “brittle” compared to other breeds.
For example, layer hybrids may have weaker bones because they lay eggs all the time and need perfect nutrition to stay healthy, while broiler hybrids are more likely to have heart and leg problems because they grow so quickly.
Heritage chickens usually do better in an urban backyard where they may be free to roam or where there may be occasional feed problems.
Behavior
Heritage roosters often still mate and act like a flock, which can be good or bad. So choose a calm breed if you want a rooster as a pet. Some breeds may be more protective or even a little mean.
Some layer hybrids don’t mate on their own at all, so they don’t really have any rooster traits. Also, heritage hens brood more often than hybrids.
This is good if you want to hatch chicks, but it means that a broody hen won’t lay eggs while she’s nesting. Because they are bred to lay eggs, hybrids that are bred to lay eggs rarely go broody.
Variety and Heritage Value
You can get a lot of different colors, comb types, and personalities with heritage breeds, and you’ll also be helping to protect genetic diversity.
Many heritage flocks have their own “personalities.” That’s great if you like having a flock of chickens that all look different and might even breed them.
All commercial hybrids are pretty much the same. They are usually brown or white birds that look the same, which makes them predictable but less interesting.
Summary
Heritage breeds are a good choice because they produce good eggs and good meat (if cared for), live a long time, are healthy, and have nice personalities.
They will lay fewer eggs each year than a hybrid layer, but they will live longer, be able to handle bad weather, and often be better mothers. However, hybrids can give you more eggs or meat very quickly, but they have shorter lives and sometimes need more care.
Which one to pick depends on your goals. As a rule, heritage breeds are best for self-sufficient urban homesteads because you can keep breeding them and they do well outside.
If you just want to get as many eggs as possible with as little work as possible, a hybrid flock might be appealing, but many backyard homesteaders find heritage flocks more satisfying overall.
One breeder says, “Heritage chickens that grow slowly produce more flavorful meat and are more sustainable in the long run.”
No matter what you choose, the most important thing is to plan ahead. If you choose the right breed of chicken, set up your coop correctly, and get along with your neighbors, you can be sure to get fresh eggs and meat from your own yard.
Breeding heritage chickens in the city is fun, educational, and rewarding. You’ll soon be clucking and smiling every morning as you gather their eggs, knowing that you chose birds that do well in your area, take up little space, and fit in with your way of life.
